5 Trending Ingredients at the 2024 ISPA Conference

May 2nd, 2024

We've gathered a few of the top ingredients to look out for that will be making a big splash in formulations for the rest of year and beyond.

Photo courtesy of igishevamaria

Another year, another successful ISPA conference where we learned so much insight into the state of the spa industry and future trends, and made lasting connections with top pros and popular brands.

The ISPA 2024 conference gathered hundreds at the Phoenix Convention Center to partake in three days of networking, immersive treatments and presentations of the newest in skin care, wellness and spa business. The show floor was filled with brands ready to feature their new launches, discuss upcoming initiatives and share the latest news in their respective sectors.

While walking the floor, there was an overarching theme: innovative ingredients. The landscape of modern skin care is changing to include more and more unique ingredients that have endless potential for skin health. We've gathered a few of the top ingredients to look out for that will be making a big splash in formulations for the rest of year and beyond.

1. Ghee

This ancient skin soother is now making it big in many natural skin care products. While the ingredient has Ayurvedic roots that go thousands of years back, many skin care brands are now catching on to its major skin benefits. The ingredient is often an essential for Indian cultures in the kitchen and for well-being, and for many, it is a symbol of nourishment, well-being, abundance and prosperity.¹

Ghee has been described as an almost "salve" for healing of the skin. Its benefits can include: softening and hydrating the skin, providing a natural glow, brightening skin tone and dark spots, repairing dry or damaged skin, reducing dark circles and treating cracked skin or lips.²

On the ISPA show floor, ghee was featured in Shakara's collection of skin care. The brand, inspired by international humanitarian leader and spiritual Master, Sri Sri Ravi Shankar, features a range of products that utilize the skin capabilities of ghee. Shankara's Gheesutra Collection is crafted by a process that takes up to two weeks, where potent Ayurvedic herbs are infused into 100-times washed A2 ghee, all while being harmonized with high-vibrational sounds to embed each bottle with uplifting energy.³

2. Goat's Milk

Sensitive, inflamed or dry skin clients have met their match with goat's milk skin care products. This soothing ingredient has been gaining attention for its potential to heal compromised skin conditions. Naturally derived goat's milk has endless skin benefits that all include healing sensitized skin.

The trending ingredient is packed with vitamins and minerals that boost skin's barrier, therefore strengthen skin's microbiome. This type of barrier repair and protection is also massively trending within the esthetics industry, as many clients are dealing with environmental aggressors affecting the state of their skin.

Goat's milk is also known for its hydrating and anti-inflammatory properties. One brand that heavily featured this ingredient on at the ISPA conference was Beekman 1802, who's entire collection is formulated with goat's milk. The brand featured the repackaging of one of their most iconic products that contain goat's milk, Bloom Cream in a Tube and a Bloom Cream Jumbo with Refillable Pod.⁴

3. Chocolate

Estheticians have been sweetening up their skin treatments with the addition of chocolate. This ingredient's skin benefits are expansive, considering it's a rich source of antioxidants and flavonoids.⁵ Because chocolate, a.k.a cacao, is filled with antioxidants, it can do wonders for oxidative stress and reducing environmental damage. The ingredient also promotes skin elasticity and can help to prevent premature aging.

Chocolate holds many anti-inflammatory properties, which can dramatically reduce redness and irritation on the skin. While this ingredient is busy calming and soothing the skin, it is also providing UV protection caused by sun exposure. The flavonoids in cacao can help to neutralize free radicals caused by UV exposure, reducing their harmful effects on the skin.⁶

A brand that has utilizes the benefits of chocolate in and out of the treatment room is Pevonia with their Chocolate Indulgence collection. The line includes their Chocolate Indulgence Moisturizer and Foaming Salt Scrub. Both products provide a luxurious product experience, while also hydrating and soothing the skin.

4. Collagen

It's no surprise that collagen is a trending ingredient in the esthetics space. While collagen has been around for what seems like forever, products that highlight this ingredient are only continuing to grow, at an extremely increased rate. Collagen is the most abundant protein in the human body, but as we all know, collagen decreases with age or from stress due to environmental aggressors. Collagen can be found in nutrient dense foods and in the form of powders and encapsulated supplements, but many can also boost their collagen production through the use of skin care products.

Collagen's main benefit to the skin is its potential for filling fine lines and reducing wrinkles. The anti-aging power of collagen appears to be endless, and many skin care brands are catching on to that. This ingredient replenishes the skin to provide elasticity, hydration and a plumpness to the skin's texture.⁷

The ISPA convention featured brands that highlighted this ingredient, including Elemis' Pro-Collagen Anti-Aging Skincare Line. The brand highlighted this with their Pro-Collagen Marine Cream SPF 30, Cleansing Balm and Dynamic Resurfacing Facial Pads, that all focus on collagen's potential for boosting skin health.

5. Phytomelatonin

If you haven't heard of this ingredient, we won't blame you! We had never heard of Phytomelatonin either, until the 2024 ISPA conference. This skin compound, derived of plant melatonin, has been utilized in skin formulations by very few brands. One of which, being Kymamai, has built their collection around its many benefits.

The brand's founder, Dr. Ferri, has patented his extraction technique for Alpine Plant Melatonin, harnessing the power of phytomelatonin in their skin care products. These products utilize the ingredient to help reduce photoaging, while reducing wrinkles, UV damage and dark spots. The ingredient also promotes skin elasticity and volume.

Phytomelatonin's full range of benefits is still quite unknown to the beauty industry, but more and more research is being performed to confirm its efficacy and potential for anti-aging skin care.