Spotlight: Lighten Up

Whether it's a gathering of new freckles, a mottled skin tone or dark, irregular facial discoloration, hyperpigmentation is sure to make an appearance in your spa.

The three main causes of hyperpigmentation are photodamage, hormonal changes, and inflammation or injury. Discoloration occurs when melanocytes, which produce melanin to darken and protect skin from ultraviolet rays, start to overreact and overproduce.

Begin developing a responsible treatment protocol by determining three factors: the cause of hyperpigmentation, your client's lifestyle and her skin type. "Summer is not the time to begin a hyperpigmentation regimen because most people get too much sun exposure, which will worsen the pigmentation problems," says Chandra Bredel, director of education at Global Beauty Group.

A proposed ruling that would limit the availability of hydroquinone, a common ingredient found in hyperpigmentation products, has left the industry divided over its use. Several practitioners and manufacturers are already working with alternative ingredients while others remain confident in the safety and efficacy of the ingredient. "I think hydroquinone is a valid product," says Howard Murad, M.D., founder/CEO of Murad skin care (www.murad.com). "I've used it thousands of times with no complications."

Ben Johnson, M.D., has decided to pass on hydroquinone and work with botanical alternatives. "Research conducted in Asia has shown that paper mulberry bark, for example, is as strong as hydroquinone, yet it doesn't have the same irritation factor," says the CEO of Osmosis (www.osmosisskincare.com).

Help protect clients' skin against hyperpigmentation from the first visit by educating them on proper sun care "so they can avoid serious hyperpigmentation problems in the future," says Katherine Tomasso, national director of education for Yon-Ka Paris (www.yonka.com).

Dermalogica Chroma White TRx brightens and clarifies skin with a multi-step process. The six-ingredient line minimizes the appearance of hyperpigmentation and prevents further damage at the cellular level. 800.831.5150, www.dermalogica.com

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