Peptides Glossary: Wrinkle Erasers

These protein powerhouses are the hottest things in antiaging technology. This guide helps you tell them apart.

By Andrea Moret

Found in nature but enhanced in the lab, peptides are small protein fragments formed by joining two or more amino acids. The shorter the chain, the greater potential these molecules have to penetrate the dermal-epidermal junction and go to work synthesizing collagen and elastin, repairing DNA, easing fine lines and lightening the appearance of pigmentation.

Topical application of peptides, such as those found in professional skin care, produce results in a less-invasive manner than injectables. Plus, they’re nonirritating and can have profound long-term effects.

Following is a list of the most commonly used peptides in professional skincare products and the results they produce.

Time Freezers: Relaxes the face by inhibiting nerve signals and weakening muscle contractions that can cause wrinkles

• Acetyl glutamyl heptapeptide-3
• Argireline (acetyl hexapeptide-3)
• SNAP-8 (acetyl octapeptide-3)
• Botoceutical
• Syn-Ake (dipeptide diaminobutyroyl benzylamide diacetate)
• Myoxinol
• Hydrolyzed hibiscus esculentus

Skin Plumpers: Targets collagen and elastin to help build newer, firmer skin cells

• Botaniceutical CS
• Biopeptide CL
• Dipeptide-5
• Palmitoyl dipeptide-6
• Syn-Tacks (diamino hydroxybutyrate)
• Human oligopeptide-1
• IdeaLift
• Matrixyl (palmitoyl pentapeptide-3)
• Matrixyl 3000 (palmitoyl oligopeptide and tetrapeptide-7)
• Palmitoyl oligopeptide (Dermaxyl and Matrixyl 3000)
• Palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7 (Matrixyl 3000, Eyeliss and Haloxyl, formerly palmitoyl tetrapeptide-3)
• Syn-Coll (palmitoyl tripeptide-5)
• Trylagen
• Tripeptide-1, 10 and 29
• Citrulline
• Syn Glycan

Firming: Fills in fine lines and tightens sagging skin

• Bio-Bustyl
• Biopeptide EL

Vitamin Packed: Protects and repairs DNA with free-radical-fighting antioxidants

• Decarboxy carnosine HCL
• Dermaxyl
• Preventhelia

Detoxifying: Stimulates lymphatic circulation, flushes cells and improves the appearance of puffiness underneath the eyes

• Dipeptide-2
• Eyeliss
• Human oligopeptide-11

Lightening Fights and treats hyperpigmentation and encourages even skin tone

• Glutamyl Amidoethyl Indole
• Haloxyl
• Oligopeptide-34

Hair Growth: Targets hair follicles to reverse loss and grow longer, stronger strands

• Myristoyl hexapeptide-16
• Octapeptide-2
• Procapil
• SymPeptide 226 and 235 (myristoyl pentapeptide-17)

Clearing: Calms inflammation, and treats and prevents acne, redness and rosacea

• Oligopeptide-10 (HB-64)
• Regu-CEA
• SymPeptide 380 (myristoyl hexapeptide-23)
• Skinasensyl PW LS 9852
• Hexapeptide-9

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